U.S.
National Park System - Cultural
Landscape Project - 2003
Cowlitz Farm
Cowlitz portage was the
termination point of river travel from the
Columbia, and the embarkation stage for the
overland route north to Puget Sound. A large
prairie was located about a mile from the
landing, and from the mid-1830s on, cattle from
Fort Vancouver were driven to the site to graze.
In the summer of 1838, while Chief Factor
McLoughlin was on furlough, James Douglas sent a
herd of cattle to the Cowlitz from Fort
Vancouver, with "Mr. Ross & eight men with a
number of agricultural implements."
Farming at the new establishment was already
underway when Chief Factor McLoughlin returned
to the Columbia from England in 1839, with the
instructions to begin intensive farming
operations at the Cowlitz, which the Hudson's
Bay Company sold to the Puget's Sound
Agricultural Company. Chief Trader John Tod had
been sent to superintend establishment of the
farm in the fall of 1838, and by the time
McLoughlin arrived at the Cowlitz in November of
1839: "...[I] found that Mr. Chief Trader Tod
had sown 275 bushels of Wheat, which looked as
well as any I ever saw he had 200 acres of new
land ploughed and which has been cross ploughed
during the winter and 135 acres broken up and
rails cut and carted to fence these
fields." Hudson's Bay Company clerk John
Work wrote a colleague, Edward Ermatinger, that
fall: "Our friend Tod is superintending a newly
established farm on an extensive scale at the
Cowlitz..."
The soil at Cowlitz was
rich, and far better suited than that of
Nisqually's for crop production. Over the years,
the Cowlitz farm became the chief grain producer
for the P.S.A.C. Land was rapidly put into
production: by the spring of 1840, six hundred
acres had been ploughed, and by the fall of 1841
one thousand acres were under cultivation. At
the time of the 1846-47 inventory, 1,432 1/2
acres were under cultivation. Crops
included wheat, oats, barley, peas, turnips,
beans, cole seed and potatoes. During later
testimony before the British and American Joint
Commission, a former employee stated that in
1846 about twelve hundred acres were enclosed
"...and subdivided by fences and ditches, into
fields of convenient size, say from fifty to one
hundred acres. Portions of this land were laid
down under cultivated grasses, and the pastures
were fully stocked."
As stated,
the Cowlitz Portage was the termination
point of river travel from the Columbia,
and the embarkation stage for the overland
route to Puget Sound. The farm was
established on Cowlitz Prairie, one of
many prairies alternating with forests,
located between the landing and Fort
Nisqually to the north. The prairie was
about a mile from the landing. Its size
varied, according to who did the
estimating: William Tolmie thought it was
about four miles long and one mile wide;
Duflot de Mofrás thought it was six by two
miles, James Douglas said the plain
"...contains a surface of about 3000 acres
of clear land." The site, Douglas
said in 1839, had the disadvantage of
"...being separated from the River by a
steep, rugged hill impracticable in its
present state, to wheeled carriages: and
the excavation of a convenient road, will
be an enterprise attended with great
labour and expense." Lieutenant
Charles Wilkes, who arrived overland from
the north in 1841 noted the farm was
located on "an extensive prairie on the
banks of that river [the Cowlitz]." He
later reported:
I was told that the stock on this farm
do not thrive so well as elsewhere:
there are no low prairie grounds on that
side of the river in the vicinity, and
it is too far for them to resort to the
Kamass plains, a fine grazing country a
few miles distant, where the wolves
would make sad depredations with the
increase, if not well watched...The
hilly portion of the country, although
the soil in many parts is very good, is
so heavily timbered as to make it in the
present state of the country valueless;
this is also the case with many fine
portions of level grounds; but there are
large tracts of fine prairie suitable
for cultivation and ready for the
plough.
Eugene Duflot
de Mofrás, at Fort Vancouver the same year
as Wilkes, described the Cowlitz River
route:
Fort Cowlitz is situated on the river
of the same name and rises on a plain 6
miles long and 2 miles wide. This river,
on whose banks beds of coal and lignite
are exposed, rises, as does the
Nisqually, on the slopes of Mt. Rainier
and empties into the right bank of the
Columbia River, a few leagues above its
mouth. Its channel, navigable only by
barges, is extremely tortuous, being
filled with fallen trees, rocks and
rapids that make its passage hazardous.
At narrow points its banks are steep and
great masses of granite formation
thickly covered with forests tend to
give this country a wild and somber
aspect Occasionally, where the country
is fairly level, plains covered with
rich pasturage are visible. The number
of hectares placed under cultivation
through the Company's efforts is
approximately 100.
By the spring
of 1840, some houses had been built, and
by the spring of 1841, when Charles Wilkes
visited the site, a dairy was in
operation, and both a gristmill and
sawmill were under construction. In
1845-46 a dwelling, granaries and
outbuildings were erected at the mouth of
the Cowlitz River to store the farm's
produce until Company vessels could pick
it up. The inventory of structures
in 1846-47 listed a fifty by thirty foot
dwelling house; a forty by one hundred
foot store and two forty by thirty foot
stores, two granaries and the sawmill
"& improvements attached, incomplete."
In addition, there were a number of
outbuildings listed, including thirteen
105 by twenty foot barns, a "close bam,"
eighty by twenty-five feet, two piggeries,
two stables, and six "men's houses."
Two maps of
"Cowelitz" Farm as cultivated in 1844-45,
and 1845 and Spring 1846 shows the farm's
organization to be compact, much more
similar in nature to Nisqually's
organization than to Fort Vancouver's,
obviously due to the acreage available on
its large plain. It was organized in a
series of abutting rectangular and square
fenced fields ranging in size from around
nine to 105 acres. Some of the larger
fields had the 105 by twenty foot barns,
or grain sheds located within them. In the
approximate center of the farm was a long
rectangular enclosure in which were
located two grain sheds and two barns in a
line running southeast. Southeast of these
were a cluster of buildings, which are not
identified on the map, but must have been
the dwelling house and possibly the store.
Southeast of these, on the banks of a
stream, were pigs styes--in 1846 the farm
housed around three hundred hogs,
excluding the young ones--and a stable,
and three houses. Beyond the fenced
enclosures, to the east on the plain, were
several dwellings. The fields were
numbered, and a comparison between the
maps shows that crops were rotated within
the different fields, although the fields
ranging along the southeasterly edge of
the farm appear to have been laid down
permanently in timothy and clover. An
employee later said the Company had "a
comfortable, comodious dwelling house; a
large two-story granary, with barns and
sheds, conveniently distributed at various
points over the farm." The lack of a road
noted by Douglas in 1839, had been
remedied by 1845: "They had a wagon road
to the bank of the Cowlitz River, made at
considerable cost," The sawmill was
located near the Cowlitz River, and
sheep--by 1846 about one thousand--were
pastured on lands to the north of the
farm; horses were pastured on the opposite
bank of the Cowlitz.
Cowlitz Farm
Declines
In December of 1846,
George Roberts, who had served as a Hudson's Bay
Company clerk for a number of years at Fort
Vancouver, was placed in charge of Cowlitz Farm
by Chief Factor Peter Skene Ogden, succeeding
Charles Forrest. At that time, production at the
Cowlitz Farm was near its peak, with over
fourteen hundred acres of land under
cultivation, piggeries, stables, two large
granaries, several store buildings, houses for
the superintendent and employees, over a dozen
barns, and an incomplete sawmill. The Puget's
Sound Agricultural Company later claimed the
Cowlitz Farm included 3,572 acres in total. As
at Fort Vancouver, the 1849 gold rush took its
toll on the labor force; by 1850-51, the number
of employees at Cowlitz had been reduced from
nineteen in 1847-48 to six. In 1851 Roberts
resigned from the Company and was replaced by
Henry Peers, another alumnus of Fort Vancouver.
By this time, the bulk of the Cowlitz livestock
had been transferred to Forts Nisqually and
Victoria, and agricultural operations at the
farm had been sharply reduced. In 1854, Isaac
Stevens reported the the U.S. Department of
State, that the Puget's Sound Agricultural
Company claimed eight thousand acres of land at
the Cowlitz, although, he said, "According to
plat deposited at Surveyor General's office,
their tract contains only about three thousand
acres. Some years back about fifteen hundred
acres of land were under cultivation, but of
late years the cultivation of land has been
almost entirely abandoned. The fences have been
allowed to go to decay; much of the hay even has
not been cut." According to his agent, Isaac
Ebey, "The buildings are becoming old and
dilapidated."
Until 1856, minor
operations of the company continued to be
conducted at the farm, although encroachments by
Americans had significantly reduced its
holdings. In 1859, Roberts made arrangements to
occupy the remaining Cowlitz Farm lands and
buildings for the Puget's Sound Agricultural
Company to maintain its claim to the property
until settlement of the company's claim with the
United States; his obligation was to keep the
buildings in good repair. From that time until
1871, when Roberts left for Cathlamet,
Washington, he was embroiled in a number of
disputes with Americans who refused to recognize
the company's claims to the land.
The granaries built at the
mouth of the Cowlitz were, by 1854 in poor
condition. In 1857, according to Dugald
Mactavish, the buildings--but not the land--were
sold to an American.
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